Sampling

A real sample motion.
Not a single photo.

Apparel doesn’t ship from a one-shot quote. You need proto, fit, PP, and TOP samples, with revisions, lab dips, and trim cards in between. We run the loop so your first production order isn’t your first fit check.

Why a sample motion matters

The cost of skipping sampling shows up at scale.

First PO is not the time to learn

Cutting 500 units on the wrong fabric weight costs more than the PO itself. A real sample loop pays for itself in the units you don't scrap.

Photos lie. Samples don't.

A factory's portfolio photo tells you nothing about how your specific tech pack will be cut, sewn, and finished by their line.

Fit is the silent killer

Pattern grading, ease, drop, sleeve length. Every dimension shifts when the pattern moves to a new factory. You need an approved fit sample on file.

The four stages

Proto. Fit. PP. TOP.

Four samples, each with a job. Skip any of them and the cost shows up on the production floor, usually as units you can’t ship.

01

Proto sample

Goal: Verify pattern and construction
Material: Stand-in / placeholder
Required for: All categories

The first physical interpretation of your tech pack. Pattern, seams, and construction approach are real. Fabric and trims are placeholders. The goal is to confirm the factory understands the build, not to evaluate aesthetics.

  • Pattern matches tech pack measurements
  • Construction technique matches spec (seam types, stitch counts, finishes)
  • Base size only, ungraded
02

Fit sample

Goal: Lock the fit
Material: Real fabric, base size
Required for: Cut-and-sew apparel

Same factory, now in your actual fabric, in graded base size. You comment on fit; the factory revises. Usually two to three rounds. Approved fit sample becomes the reference for grading the rest of the size run. Skipped for headwear, accessories, and most hard-goods where there is no fit grading.

  • Fit comments captured on platform with photos
  • Pattern revisions tracked across rounds
  • Approved fit sample stored as the canonical reference
03

PP sample

Goal: Approve the production-ready unit
Material: Final fabric, final trims, final everything
Required for: All categories

Pre-production sample. Final fabric, final trims, final construction, final packaging. This is the unit your production order ships against. PP sample approval triggers the deposit and the cut date.

  • All trims and labels confirmed
  • Wash, finish, and pack method confirmed
  • Signed PP sample stays at the factory as the reference
04

TOP sample

Goal: Audit the live run
Material: Pulled live from the cut
Required for: All categories

Top-of-production. A unit pulled straight off the line during the bulk run. Confirms that what's shipping matches what was approved at PP. Goods don't leave the factory floor without sign-off.

  • Pulled live from production, not a re-make
  • Compared against approved PP sample
  • Required before balance payment releases

Around the samples

The other approvals that ride alongside.

Lab dips

Color matching against your reference (Pantone, swatch, or hex). Multiple rounds until the dyer hits your shade in your fabric.

Trim cards

Buttons, zippers, labels, hangtags, drawcords. Sourced, photographed, approved. Sealed cards stay at the factory.

Fabric handlooms / strike-offs

For prints, weaves, and knits with new yarn. A small woven or knitted swatch approved before bulk fabric is committed.

Fit sessions

Optional live or recorded fittings on real bodies (fit model or hired participant) before signing off the fit sample.

Who does what

Clear lanes, not chase work.

You handle the design decisions. We handle the coordination. The factory handles the make. Everyone sees the same thread.

Task
Brand
StitchGrid
Factory
Tech pack interpretation
·
Pattern making
·
·
Fit comments and revisions
Lab dip approval
·
Trim sourcing and approval
·
Sample logistics and shipping
·
·
Revision tracking on platform
·
·
TOP sample sign-off

Revisions

Every comment lives in one thread.

No more screenshot-and-WhatsApp. Fit comments, lab-dip pass-fails, trim choices, all marked up on the platform with the photo or sample they refer to. The factory sees exactly what to change. You see exactly what they changed.

  • Photo and video annotations stay with each round
  • Approved samples are versioned and locked
  • StitchGrid is always cc'd for escalations
Fit sample · round 2
In review
Brandopen

Sleeve runs 1.5cm short at the cuff. Drop hem 0.75cm in the back panel.

Factoryack

Confirmed. Adjusting pattern and re-cutting. Photos by Thu.

StitchGridnote

Lab dip approved separately. Trim card pending. Chase by Mon.

A realistic timeline

Not every product needs every stage.

We right-size the loop to what you’re making. A blank cap with embroidery doesn’t need three fit rounds. A tailored jacket does. Here’s what to expect by category.

4 to 6 weeks

Headwear and accessories

Caps, beanies, bags, small leather goods

Proto → PP → TOP

No fit grading. Decoration approval (embroidery, print, hardware) replaces the fit loop.

5 to 8 weeks

Eyewear and hard goods

Sunglasses, hard cases, drinkware

Proto → PP → TOP

Tooling availability dominates. Lead time depends on whether your factory has the frame or mold already.

8 to 12 weeks

Cut-and-sew apparel

Tees, hoodies, knitwear, woven tops, outerwear

Proto → Fit (2–3 rounds) → PP → TOP

Full loop. Fit rounds and lab dips add the most variance.

The full loop

Cut-and-sew apparel, phase by phase.

For accessories and hard goods, drop the Fit row and total runs 4 to 8 weeks instead. We’ll give you a realistic schedule before kickoff, not a hopeful one.

Phase
Typical weeks
Cumulative
Proto
1–2
Week 2
Fit (rounds 1–3)
3–5
Week 7
PP sample
2–3
Week 10
Bulk cut + sew
varies
Week 10 +
TOP audit
Day of
On cut

Sampling questions

Things brands ask us.

Don't see yours? Email hello@stitchgrid.com.

Who pays for samples?+

The brand. Sample costs are quoted up front by the factory and invoiced to you directly. StitchGrid doesn't take a margin on samples, only on production.

How many fit rounds is normal?+

Two to three rounds for a standard garment. Complex construction (tailoring, technical outerwear) can run four to five. We'll flag early if the round count starts to drift.

What if the factory keeps missing fit?+

After two failed rounds on the same comment, we escalate. If the factory can't hit the spec, we re-route the program to another factory on the shortlist. Your tech pack and learnings come with you.

Do I need a tech pack to start sampling?+

Strongly recommended. We can help build one if you don't have one yet, typically a 1- to 2-week effort from a reference garment or sketch.

Can I skip proto and go straight to fit?+

Sometimes, if you've worked with a factory before or have a confirmed graded pattern. For first-PO with a new factory, we don't recommend it.

What about wear testing and field testing?+

Built into the loop on request. We can coordinate wash testing, abrasion testing, and field testing with brand-provided or sourced testers between fit and PP.

Sample with us

Your first PO should ship against an approved sample.

Post a production job. We’ll bring back factories ready to start the loop within the week.